Today we share one free amigurumi crochet pattern again for you. As you know we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. The main crochets are amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi llama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi bunny, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi lambs, amigurumi bees, amigurumi unicorns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi foxes, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi dinosaurs, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more …
Todays daily new amigurumi free crochet pattern is amigurumi pig
I want to give you some informations about this pattern ;
If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.
MATERIALS
Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Superwash Bulky in (A) Blossom Heather, (B) Oyster Heather, and (C) Mineral Heather [nose, main body and spots, respectively]
Furls Alpha Series olivewood crochet hook size G (4.0mm) or G+ (4.5mm)
Stuffing
10mm plastic snap-in eyes
Yarn/tapestry needle
Sewing pins (optional)
Stitch marker (I use a small scrap of yarn)
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch = chain
Sc = single crochet
Dc = double crochet
Dc dec = double crochet decrease
Slp st = slip stitch
Sk = skip
FO = finish off
Rep = repeat
Dec = decrease
PM = place marker
2x, 3x, etc = 2 times, 3 times, etc
Nose / Face / Body
With color A, ch 3
1. 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in last ch, rotating your work so you’re working along the bottom of the chain (see picture), 2 sc in same ch space as 1st 2 sc (8)
2. 2 sc in each of the 1st 5 sc, sc in next sc, slp st (loose) in next sc, sc in last sc (13)
3. *3 dc in 1st st, sc in next 3 sts*, rep *-* around, remove marker (leaving the last sc unworked)
Here’s what we’ve got so far. Each round is in a different color to illustrate structure.
SWITCH to color B
4. replace marker and working in BLO, sc dec, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, sc dec, sc in next 3 sc, sc dec, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc dec, sc in last 2 sc (17)
5. now in both loops, 2 sc in each of the 1st 2 sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in each of the next 2 sc, sc in next sc, sc dec (20)
6. sc in 1st 6 sc, slp st (loose) in next 7 sc, sc in last 7 sc (20)
You’ll notice at this stage that your pig snout is looking rather sad and undefined.
REATTACH color A to the front loops of round 4 (at the beginning of the round):
slp st in 1st 2 loops, ch 1, slp st in next 6 loops, ch 1, slp st in next 6 loops, ch 1, slp st in last 5 loops, FO. Now it looks like this:
Tie the two yarn ends snugly together and weave them in, or use your crochet hook to pull them through to the back and tuck them inside the snout. Tah dah! Now we can return to our regularly scheduled pattern.
7. sc in 1st 3 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc*, sc in next 8 sc, rep *-*, sc in last 3 sc (24)
8. 2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc, *2 sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 6x, sc in last 2 sc (31)
9. sc in 1st 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* 3x total, sc in last 11 sc (35)
10. sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc*, sc in next 20 sc, rep *-*, sc in last 2 sc (40)
11. sc in 1st 16 sc, sc dec, sc in next 2 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 3x total, sc dec, sc in last 9 sc (41)
12. sc in 1st sc, [sc dec] x2, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, sc dec, sc in next 2 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* 3x total, sc in next 3 sc, sc dec, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 5 sc (42)
13. sc in each sc around (42)
14. sc in 1st 14 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc*, sc in next 11 sc, rep *-* 1x, sc in last 9 sc (46)
15. sc in each sc around (46)
Put snap-in eyes between rounds 11-12. The left eye should be between and covering the decreases on the left side of the face, the right eye should be just above the decreases on the right side of the face
16. sc in 1st 2 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc*, rep *-* 4x total, sc in next 9 sc, rep *-* 3x (53)
17. sc in 1st 7 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc*, sc in next 33 sc, rep *-* 1x, sc in last sc (57)
18. sc in 1st 19 sc, sc dec, sc in next 10 sc, sc dec, sc in next 11 sc, sc dec, sc in last 11 sc (54)
19. sc in 1st 20 sc, sc dec, sc in next 18 sc, sc dec, sc in last 12 sc (52)
20. sc in each sc around (52)
21. sc in 1st 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 19 sc, sc dec, sc in next 5 sc, sc dec, sc in last 17 sc (52)
22. sc in 1st 23 sc, [dc dec] 7x total, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 3 sc (47)
23. sc in 1st 13 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 20 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (51)
24. sc in 1st 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, now in FLO, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc* 2x, 2 sc in next sc, now in both loops sc in last 17 sc (58)
25. sc in each sc around (58)
26. sc in 1st 29 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last 19 sc (60)
STUFF the pig head firmly. You’ll bloat the shape here a little bit but you’ll fix that with some basic needle shaping when you’ve got your whole pig bean finished.
27-44. sc in each sc around (60)
45. *sc dec, sc in next 9 sc*, 6x, sc in last 3 sc (54)
46. sc in each sc around (54)
47. *sc dec, sc in next 7 sc* rep *-* around (48)
48. *sc dec, sc in next 6 sc* rep *-* around (42)
STUFF the rest of the pig firmly.
49. [sc dec, sc in next 5 sc] 4x, ch 9, slp st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, 2 sc in each of the last 6 ch (tail made!), rep [brackets] 2x (36)
If following the pattern directions for round 49 places the tail anywhere other than lined up with the snout, just adjust the location of the bolded section of the pattern so that it is centered on the body in relation to the face/snout.
50. *sc dec, sc in next 4 sc* rep *-* around (30)
51. *sc dec, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around (24)
52. *sc dec, sc in next 2 sc* rep *-* around (18)
53. *sc dec, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (12)
54. sc dec around
FO, leaving a long tail.
Sew any remaining hole closed and poke the needle all the way through the body (this is why I like to use a long tapestry needle) until you reach the face, just above one of the eyes.
Weave the needle through the sc stitch just above the eye and pull through. Poke the needle through the face across to the stitch right above the other eye, and weave the needle through that stitch. Pull through.
Poke the needle back through to the first side and pull the yarn snug (slowly and not too snug! Watch the effect and stop when you like it!). This will help to redefine that adorable face you had before you stuffed the piggy.
Weave in the end and there you have it, a wonderful pork bean!
Ears – make 2
With color A, ch 2
1. 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, TURN (3)
2. sc in each sc across, TURN (3)
3. sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in next sc, 3 sc in last sc, TURN (6)
4. sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in each of the next 2 sc, sc in next sc, sc dec, TURN (7)
5. sc in 1st 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc, hdc] both in the next sc, 2 dc in next sc, dc in next sc, TURN (10)
6. sc in 1st sc, 2 sc in each of the next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sts, sc dec, dc in next sc, TURN (11)
7. sc dec, sc in next 5 sts, dc in next st, dc dec, TURN (9)
8. sc dec, sc in next 3 sts, dc in next 2 sts, dc dec, TURN (7)
9. sc dec, sc in next 2 sts, FO leaving remaining stitches unworked.
The top bit of the ear will naturally want to curl forward; let it. On the other ear, flip that curl inside out so it curls the other way and you end up with a distinct left and right ear.
If your ears won’t uncurl without a lot of wrestling, you could try blocking the ears before sewing them on to relax the stitches and prevent that bunching. I didn’t block the ears of my piggies and the left ears especially have some serious curl going on.
Sew the long edges (last rows) of the ears to either side of the head, at about round 17 (about 4-5 rounds of sc buffer between the eyes and the ears) of the face.
Legs – make 4
With color A, ch 2 or magic loop
1. 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook (7)
2. 2 sc in each sc around (14)
3. sc in each sc around (14)
4. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next sc* rep *-* around (21)
5-8. sc in each sc around (21)
9. *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc* rep *-* around, sc in last sc (26)
10-12. sc in each sc around (26)
13. sc in 1st 21 sc, slp st, TURN (21)
14. sc in next 10 sc (10)
FO (leave the remaining sts unworked), leaving a long tail for assembly.
STUFF each of the legs firmly and sew them to the body of your pig with the last row of each facing out (see picture below). I recommend pinning the legs on first so you can make any adjustments: where you place the legs is going to determine if your pig can stand up on its own based on balance and symmetry.
More Amigurumi Pig İdeas
